Rear engined Cars: (RD7-10,
59, 75-80, RP2): Note that RD75-80 have been made 'full size' as cockpit
openings have enlarged since 1994. They have correct length arms. RD7-10 are
very narrow at the shoulder and have shorter straighter arms, and are often
better where the cockpit opening is smaller, particularly where the sides
of the cockpit go straight down to the floorpan. Discard the seat. Some kits
have the seat cast as part of the floorpan. This needs to be removed with
whatever tools you have - a fine hacksaw and small power drill with fraziers
(cutting tools) are ideal, but a junior hacksaw and small file will achieve
the same result. RD59 has the back of the seat moulded as part of the figure
as it was often visible in the 1960's. It can be cut off if not wanted. If
the cockpit has very narrow sides either the figure or the sides themselves
will need to be trimmed. Do this after the arms have been attached to the
To get the height of the driver right for a particular cockpit, fix a plug
of Milliput on the floor pan in place of the seat. Dust it well with talcum
powder to stop the Milliput sticking to the driver. With the body and floorpan
together, push the figure down into the cockpit until it is sitting at the
right height and attitude. The Milliput will form a positive location for
the driver to go back into once it's been painted. In many cases it's easier
to glue the driver directly into the cockpit opening and not mount it on the
floorpan at all. Some filing may be necessary to fit the instrument panel
bulkhead around the thighs. With RD9 and 10 the arms may need fitting after
the driver is in the car as they project out above the cowling.
Front engined Cars (RD16,17,
100, 101): RD100 and 101 both include a seat, so it is easiest to replace
the one that comes with the car if possible. With RD16 and 17, either the
seat or the driver (probably both!) will have to be adapted. Cut and/or file
away until the driver and the seat fit together. I've left the lower legs
and feet very rudimentary as they'll not be visible and a fair amount of bending
and filing may well be necessary. The drivers sat with feet apart straddling
the gearbox in those days, so you'll be very much at the mercy of the kit's
interpretation of the interior dimensions - which can vary dramatically.
Note that RP2 can also be used as a rear engined driver by cutting
a notch behind the knees and bending the legs down to give a more upright
Rally/Touring Cars (RD65-67):
These figures have been made using the Renaissance Recaro seat, available
all good model shops (!!). The figures will fit exactly into these seats so
we'd recommend using them in place of the kit ones. The legs are interchangeable,
so a RHD rally set can be made from RD65 & 66 simply by swapping the legs
over - they point in slightly different directions due to the footwell. RD67
is RD65 with the legs of RD66, for BTCC drivers etc.
Arm length is obviously the critical
factor when the driver is holding the steering wheel. The easiest method is
often to assemble the body, arms and steering wheel as one unit, dispensing
with the steering column to dashboard attachment. This is especially suitable
with those single seaters where the cowling extends over the steering wheel.
Getting the wheel and arms to all match up can prove impossible when the wheel
is attached to the car.
If you do need to alter the arms cut them apart at the elbow. Using a .50mm
drill bit drill a hole in the end of both parts. Adjusting for arm length
rejoin them using 15amp fuse wire with just a touch of Araldite. Do this with
the figure in position making sure that the angle of the hand is correct.
Any gaps can be filled with Milliput.
If you're uncertain of your ability
and concerned you might screw up the figure, don't be worried. We'll be happy
to send you any replacement parts needed with our compliments. A first class
stamp always helps if you are in the UK.