HELMET PACKS [RD11, 12, 33, 34, 55, 56, 73]:

Each pack contains five helmets.

RD11, 12, 55, 56 and 73 have heads in, to fit on existing figures.
RD11 contains two helmets visor down, two visor up, and one visor up wearing a balaclava with eyeholes.
RD12 contains three faces without and two with the balaclava.
RD55 contains four of the open face [with balaclava] helmet used in many branches of motor sport. Also a full face half visored helmet.
RD56 now revised contains two versions of the Bell helmet worn by most of the IndyCar drivers, F3000 drivers, etc. in the mid nineties. The pack contains three helmets with a small lip around the front and two superspeedway shaped helmets as in RD73.
RD73 contains 2 1996 Schumacher style helmets, 2 standard shape with small aerodynamic flaps at each side and one as standard but with an air vent on top.

RD33 and 34 are empty helmets.

For those who prefer to make their own visors, RD12 and RD34 do not have them. Mounting points are marked and a template is provided. Hints on making visors below.

Making Visors:

Two of our helmet packs (RD12 & 34) have no visors for people who prefer to make their own transparent ones. We'd highly recommend using drawing film, also called overhead projection film, which can be bought at art and design shops in A4 sheets. It's far more flexible, more 'plasticky' than acetate or clear plastic card. It comes in different thicknesses. The thinnest is the best for visors.

To make the visor, cut out a small piece of clear film, and put it over the template on a small block of wood. Mark the points where the holes will be with a pin, then drill down through film and template into the wood using a .50mm drill. Peg this hole with a spare .50 drill bit or a bit of medium (15amp) fusewire, then drill the second hole and peg that too. The film will now be securely held over the template. Using a scalpel with a new blade, just draw the point along the film above the outline. Repeat a little harder, and again if needed, the point will follow the line each time. I find it usually cuts through the second or third time. Tight corners can be trimmed by pushing the blade down through the film, inner corners can be cut by just pushing the point of the blade down through the film. It will not tear at the corner. Once it is cut, take out the pegs trying not to touch the surface of the film with your fingers.

To curve it, take a paint brush with a diameter about two-thirds the diameter of the helmet. Roll a strip of paper - cartridge paper is good - around the handle putting the visor in as you go. You need to get it at right angles to the brush handle for the curve to be right. Roll the paper around fully, covering the visor, then dip the end of the brush including the visor into a mug of near boiling water. Count to fifteen slowly (or as long as your fingers can take the steam!) then take it out and put it under the cold tap. Unroll the paper, and hey presto!

The only way I've found of fitting them is by using bits of fuse wire that project slightly from the holes in the helmet and glueing the visor over them.

You can download the visor template here:

Save and print it at 25% to get the right size.